What the guidebooks won't tell you: Istanbul - Monarch Glassware

What the guidebooks won’t tell you: Istanbul

More important than marking a new spot on your map or getting another stamp in your passport are the emotions and feelings you experience when visiting a place. This article isn’t about what to see or where to go in Istanbul. It’s about what you’ll feel when you visit this incredible city. And believe me, there’s plenty to be amazed by.

Istanbul: A City of Surprises

Let me start by admitting that I used to laugh at people who thought the capital of Turkey was Antalya. But that was until I made the same mistake, confidently telling my partner that Istanbul was the capital. Thankfully, I knew that the capital of the United States is Washington, not New York, or I might not have a partner anymore. For those who don’t know, Ankara is the capital of Turkey. Turkey is one of those countries where the largest city isn’t the capital. Ankara has a population of about 5.5 million, while Istanbul is home to over 14 million people.

What Surprised Me the Most

Despite Turkey being a Muslim country, in most areas (though not in the historic parts), you can freely buy any strong alcohol or enjoy a beer while casually strolling along the waterfront. Locals don’t even bother wrapping their bottles in paper or bags—they have nothing to hide, it seems. We, however, raised to be cautious by our law enforcement, hesitated before drinking in public, even after wrapping our bottles in paper.

While local women might swim in pools wearing headscarves and “special swimsuits” (basically, their everyday clothing that covers their entire body), bold makeup is still a thing. This brings up the question: if you’re such a devout person wearing a hijab to cover your body and avoid attracting attention from the opposite sex, why all the makeup? Yet, I saw many women on the streets of the city who weren’t shy about showing off their midriffs, cleavage, and other prominent body parts. Perhaps they weren’t Turkish or Muslim because Istanbul is a multicultural city where you can encounter anyone.

While some people debate whether the chicken or the egg came first, others argue about whether Istanbul is in Europe or Asia. The answer is simple: it depends on which part of the city you’re in. Officially, Turkey is located in both Southeast Europe and Southwest Asia, divided by the Sea of Marmara, the Bosphorus, and the Dardanelles straits. No matter how hard you try to get lost, you’ll always easily figure out where you are. The two parts of the city are drastically different from each other. In one, you might feel like a Wall Street professional, surrounded by modern skyscrapers, hotels, banks, and business centers. In the other, you can wander endlessly through narrow streets, old markets, souvenir shops, and slums with crumbling, yet still inhabited, houses.

The Disappointment of Istanbul

Perhaps one of the most disappointing moments of traveling through Istanbul is realizing that while there’s a sea, there’s nowhere to swim. Of course, some brave souls won’t be deterred by dirty water or nearby passing ferries, but it’s still better not to risk it. If you Google “Beaches in Istanbul,” you’ll find dozens of articles with addresses. Most of these beaches are private, and entry is paid: for 15-30 liras, you’ll get a spot on the sand or a sunbed and a small piece of sea roped off with buoys. Locals prefer to swim either far from the city or at nearby resorts because, after all, this is Turkey.

The Turkish Taxi Experience

You could write an entire book about Turkish taxi drivers and their driving habits. Their love for driving on the wrong side of the road is best accepted as part of the local culture. It’s safer to stick to the metro and ferries for getting around—they’re fast, cheap, and absolutely safe.

Food in Istanbul

Food in Istanbul is a whole different story, depending on your preferences, religious beliefs, and preconceptions. Speaking of the latter, I’m subtly leading up to the king of local street food, which not everyone dares to try: kokoreç. To put it simply, it’s grilled offal wrapped in intestines. It sounds scarier than it looks. If you don’t inspect it too closely, it just looks like a large meat patty in a bun, and it tastes good—crispy, with a slight layer of fat. It’s worth trying at least once, and then we’ll see how it goes.

They say that to feel like a true Istanbulite, you need to buy a simit (a sesame-covered bagel), take it on a ferry, buy some tea or coffee, and have breakfast that way. If you prefer healthier food and street snacks aren’t your thing, the city has a million restaurants offering both local and international cuisine. You definitely won’t go hungry here.

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